PROJECT PROPOSAL: “MERCY”
Introduction
The project proposal „MERCY” analyzes the psychology of people suffering from mental disorders basing on various theories of psychocologists, psychitrists and neurologists. It also highlights the theory of psychopathic changes happening in the human brain, based on the bahvior of serial killers.
The project interprets their character, motives as also the double lives they lead. All these elements contribute to the creation of the final major project collection. The concept does not glorify murderers or violence but is supposed to help the receiver explore their psyche and induce them to contemplate what they see.
The name ‘MERCY’ relates to the title of Nigel Blundel’s book ‘Serial Killers: Murder Without Mercy” as is also inspired by its biblical meaning.
According to Christianism even the biggest sinner is loved by God. Mercy is forgiveness which is a liberating act of spiritual power. Forgiveness is not only a process which refers to emotions, but it also reaches out to our heart. Only on the deepest level, can we stop judging another person, overcome regret and then forgive.
MENTAL DISORDERS
History
The first stage consisted of research regarding the history of mental disorders and the way they were and are regarded by the public.
Not so long ago is was believed, that the “soul” exists independantly of the body.
There can be many causes of mental disorders. They may have genetic, psychological, biological or environmental roots. A difficult childhood can have a big influence: upbringing in a pathological family, lack of love are emotional coldness. A person suffering from mental disorders usually is not capable of making correct decisions and assessing the reality. That is why they create their own world full of fantasies, fiction and wrong ideas (Valenstein, 1988).
It is worth mentioning that the first information about mental disorders can be found in the mythology. Mental disorders were considered as a sign of mystic spirituality or proof of possession. It wasn’t until Hippocrates (460-377 BC), who managed to part from philosophical speculations and led to examining medicine in a new way. He proposed the first rationlastic classification of mental disorders, which he divided into: epilepsy, mania, melancholy and paranoia.
Along with the fall of the Roman Empire in 476 AC, a couple of centuries intolerance and backwardness came. Devilry and supranaturializm theories had returned, relating mental disorders to the devil. At the same time, the dark atmosphere of the medival times favored the occurrence of pathological states. Mental people were burned at the stake. It was then believed that their behavior was a result of devilish powers. The ill were imprisoned, tortured and degraded. For a long time such people were considered to have an animal nature, that is why they would be isolated and removed from the society. At some point people with mental disorders regained their rights, however during World War II the Nazis returned to practices from the time of the Holy Inquisitions leading to mass murders of many innocent people (Kent, 2003).
Nowadays it is common knowledge that mental disorders are a product of the human brain. Mental disorders are the result of a failure of the nerve system, caused by damaged brain cells.
The gathered information had a big impact on creating the whole collection. Possesion and madness, once considered as the devils making, was an inspiration for the collection having a dark, worrying style.
ANALYSIS
The next stage of research to the „MERCY” project was collecting interesting information about specific mental disorders in order to create their visual interpretation. The gathered information became the main inspiration to creating collages with the use of mix media, painting as also experiments on a mannequin. Asymmetry, layers, clearances or deconstructions represent the emotions that face a person suffering from such afflictions as: madness, anxiety, evil, disturbia, euphoria, imagination or insaneness.
While analyzing the subject of mental diorders, one should take into account the problem of dissocial personality. Those suffering from this disorder or popularly called ‘psychopaths’. The usual symptoms are: no respect for social norms, lack of the ability to draw conclusions from experiences, especially from punishments as also the lack of forseeing the consequences of their behavior and decisions. What is more, psychopaths have an impairment in understanding in moral categories and fo not feel guilt. They also cannot control aggression often gaining satisfaction from harming others.
Another example of a mental disorder is narcissistic personality. In the Greek mythology, the story of Narcissus accurately highlights that the main disorder of this illness is self-admiration, putting oneself as an object of love, which leads to despair and loneliness. Religions also have prefigurations of narcissism. In christianity this means pathological pride and conviction of the devil of its own omnipotence. In eastern religions this is shown as a need of releasing an inner “me”. All these examples show that giving to much attention to oneself is a serious obstacle for correct development, feeling life satisfaction and happiness.
Also a known mental disorder is cotard syndrome. People suffering of this very rare illness believe that they do not exist, that a part of them does not exist or that they are simply dead. People also tend to suffer from illusions that they lack on important organ such as the heart or brain. Suicide is a common occurrence with this disorder and in many cases, when the patient is sure of his nonexistence, a feeling of immortality.
It is also worth mentioning about multiple personality disorder which occurs when a person has more multiple personalities, that do not know each other, in one body. What is important, often these personalities are totally different when it comes to character and likes.
A very popular mental disorder is schizophrenia.
In the past, people with this condition were often regarded as special. In many cultures it was belived that gods or ghosts used these people to pass messages on to the society. Schizophrenics therefore stood between the human world and the Other world, to which normal mortals had no access. Schizophrenia consists of not a single, but many brain disorders, which cause troubles with thoughts, feelings and behaviors. A schizophrenic is most commonly influenced by auditory hallucinations, but can also suffer bodily or visual ones as weel. Schizphrenics are also known to hear threatening and demanding voices (Barry,2002).
THEORIES- PSYCHOLOGY
The research led to the analysis of chosen theories regarding the human psychology.
Sigmund Freud (1856-1939) is considered a revolutionary when speaking of mental disorders. He is responsible for creating a new specialization in psychiatry called psychoanalysis. Also in therapeutic practice a clinical psychiatry model of Emil Kraepelin dominated, who claimed that “origins of most mental illnesses are biological” (Collin, 2012).
A part of the project was the analysis Freuds cabinet replica, placed in the Freud Museum in London.
The main decoration of the room, where Freud welcomed his patients was a sofa covered with Persian carpets. In Oriental stories such as Arabian Nights, the sofa played an important role. It was a symbol of passion. It wasnt just a piece of furniture, it would take the main character to an amazing, magical world, just as a flying carpet. Freud used the two element so that his patience would loose the boundary between dreaming and consciousness. The sofa was to help analyse the deepest, most secret and intimate dreams and fantasies hidden deep in the subconciousness.
The gathered information was an inspiration to creating print collages combining the designs of Persian carpets with elements representing madness (human psychology).
CRIMINAL PSYCHOLOGY
The main subject and inspiration of the “MERCY” project was criminal psychology – the analysis of the psyche of serial killes to which the initial research led. The subject is fascinating and gives many possibilities of interpreatation in the context of creating a collection because of the emotions it causes.
According to neurologist James Fallon, who studied psychopathic muderers for many years, the brains of the criminals do not function the same as those of normal people. What is more, after performing a scan of his own brain, he discovered that he had traits characteristic for that group (Fallon, 2013).
Scientists belive that the makings of a psychopath require three ingredients:
1. genetic makeup
2. brain patterns
3. childhood abuse or violence
For many years, psychiatrists have tried to explain the occurrence of inclinations that serial killers have. According to many specialists each murderer suffers fom mental disorders. Anna Moir and David Jessel through their work " A Mind to Crime: The Controversial Link Between the Mind and Criminal Behaviour " prove that the part of the criminal brains responsible for emotions and behaviors does not function. The body produces too little serotinin – a hormone responsible for the functioning of emotions (Moir & Jessel, 1997).
As murderer may be called a serial killer when at least three murders in different times have taken place. The motive of the killer is sexual or psychological pleasure gained from the crime. Most are also shy, calm, which leads to the conclusion that they lead two totally different lives. On one side a quite person, on the other a monster killing innocent people (Bull, 2015).
The gathered information became an inspiration to create garments consisting of many layers, creating an illusion of intertwining. Fetish became the reason for using lingerie’s elements which will not only highlight feminine shapes but will also deform them in a certain way through the use od deconstruction. This is used to relate to violence, rape or madness. The silhouettes are to be erotic on one side and chaotic and dark on the other.
SERIAL KILLERS
The next stage of research for the “MERCY” project was collecting information about the most terrifying serial killers such as Jack the Ripper, a prostitute murderer, who cut their victims bodies with great precision and whose identity was never revealed.
Ted Bundy was known for his ability to charm women, who he would later brutally rape and kill. Another example is Jeffrey Dahmer, one of the most terrifying serial killers, who would lure young boys to his apartment were he would rape and kill them. Dahmer would then collect parts of his victim’s body’s. It i salso worth mentioning The Yorkshire Ripper. The signature of the yorkshire ripper was a wound to the stomach gauged with a screwdriver after hitting victim on head with a hammer. apparently reconstructing an exhibit from a waxwork museum that excited him when young (a series of female torsos with windows in their belly depicting “the nine stages of pregnancy”). Sutcliffe claimed to be inspired by God to rid the world of prostitutes but was probably more driven by lust and detestation of women.
The gathered information allowed the project to take a dark, terrifying form. The below quotes gave inspiration to taking a series of photos.
“Murder is not about lust and it’s not about violence. It’s about possession.”
“We serial killers are your sons, we are your husbands, we are everywhere. And there will be more of your children dead tomorrow.”
Ted Bundy
“I was completely swept along with my own compulsion. I don’t know how else to put it. It didn’t satisfy me completely, so maybe I was thinking, ‘Maybe another one will. Maybe this one will.’ And the numbers started growing and growing and just got out of control, as you can see.”
Jeffrey Dahmer
“I remember there was actually a sexual thrill . . . you hear that little pop and pull their heads off and hold their heads up by the hair. Whipping their heads off, their body sitting there. That’d get me off.”
Edmund Kemper
PROFILING
Each person owns a set of psychophysical features, which are highlighted in behavior. Thanks to observation and through researching a certain sympotom, we can conclude about these features with the use of psychological knowledge as also other fields of knowledge (such as statistics, sociology, anthropology, biology, medicine etc.). As a crime is a result of action, through analysis we can determine the traits of the criminal (physical and psychological) which can greatly help in his profiling.
The first historic example of creating a criminal profile is the description of traits of a criminal known as ‘Jack the Ripper’. Dr Thomas Bond prepared it in 1888, basing on the analysis of injuries left by the criminal.
A person creating a profile should take into account all circumastnaces connected with the murder. One must get acquainted with technical and medical data as also data regarding the victim or the place of the murder (Bull, 2015).
Profiling became an idea for creating “characters” as a process of development, which will become the main inspiration do creating certain outfits from the collection. These characters will be created basing on the psychology of serial killers from the research. This way each look will tell a different, fascinating story. “MERCY” is a collection representing power, madness, anxiety and fantasy.
CUSTOMER/ MARKET
The target customer for “MERCY” is a woman in each age who like to highlight her femininity but also who want to look original and unique. This is a person who values luxury products of high quality. She is not afraid to take a risk, often travels and is loyal to original brands and appreciates handmade details. “MERCY” will be a collection will be created for big galas and events, at which a woman wants to look ideal and unique at the same time. The main clients will therefore be actresses, singers or models but also women who want to look beautiful at private receptions. The choice is not random taking into account the latest interest in the “Heal” collection. Female rapper Stefflon Don can be an example, who chose a fringe cape for the red carpet at the VO5 NME Awards held at Brixton Academy.
The „MERCY” collection will be limited, tailored to the client. It will be created with luxurious pieces, which will be available to the client in chosen showrooms or in a chain of high end department stores such as Selfrigies as also online on the official page of the brand or on Farfetch.com or Net-a-porte.com.
Department stores would be the most appropriate place in order to acquaint the client with the brand and build trust.
Conclusion
In conclusion, ‘Mercy’ is a collection which will be an interpretation of a story about serial killers through the analysis of mental disorders and murder motvies.
Each outfit will present a totally different story, thank to which the collection will be diverse when in shapes, volumes and colours.
Research also leads to the consideration of portraying sexual fantasy and passions like lust, emporwerment and multipersonality through garments. According to this ‘MERCY’ will consist of feminine, very sensual silhhuettes combined with multi-layer drapings (smocking technique) which in some ways hide them. Disarray, doconstruction, asymmetry, strong silhouettes, seem unfinished and decaying. Connecting beauty, fantasy with disturbing elements.
The aim of the project is to create womenswear consisting of handcrafted, original garments. It will consist of gala outfits and is intended for strong women who want to stand out of the crowd and are not afraid of experimenting with fashion.
Relating to the subject of criminal psychology opens many interesting possibilities. The collection will be kept in a toned color scheme (nude, black, beige, grey) combined with strong accents for contrast such as red. Inspiration was taken from Freuds consulting room, while the added carpets are to take the viewer on a travel to subconcioussness. A forecasting method will also be used.
The choice of materials also related to the research. In the collection, the delicate materials used are reminiscent of beauty and transience and consist of: silk chiffons, organza or mesh. Further research will be required to determine the best quality and effective materials, which will highlight the character of the collection.
The materials will not have a traditional finishing on the edges but will be slovenly frayed creating a disarray which is to bring anxiety and madness to mind. In order to achieve an interesting effect, experiments with drapery and material shredding were undertaken. The next stages of research will bring a larger amount of prints and an analysis of different methods of deconstructing garment in order to create interesting, original silhouttes. Also experiments with beading and textures will take place. The aim of the ‘MERCY’ collection is to take the observer to a world of fantasy, madness and bring thrill.