Although it is found, and adored, almost everywhere in the West, Vietnamese pho is indeed considered authentic Vietnamese cuisine, and even the national dish of Vietnam. One aspect that makes pho so satisfying to the soul is the hours of careful preparation involved. The rich, complex flavors of savory beef broth and sweet, harmonious notes of cinnamon and ginger are achieved through the hours of simmering beef bones (of which a variety are used) that arguably make the broth the main attraction of the dish. After the broth is finished, it is poured over uncooked rice noodles, and paper-thin slices of beef. There is no need to worry about cooking those- the steaming broth takes care of that. Finally, an array of condiments added to the bowl bring both additional flavors and an aesthetic appeal to the dish: cilantro, bean sprouts, Thai basil, jalapeno, lime wedges, and Hoisin sauce. (Wolf) Of course, every dish of pho varies, depending on the condiments preferred and the area in which it is found.
The early roots of pho are heard to trace- the practice of orally passed traditions found in Vietnam and throughout Southeast Asia can make the histories of cultural aspects difficult to piece together. However, most evidence of the recorded history of pho begins around the 1880’s, coincidentally the same time that the French colonized the Vietnamese. (Huynh) According to experts in Vietnamese cuisine, the Vietnamese used animals only for tilling rice fields. It wasn’t until after the French arrived that they were slaughtered and used for food. This suggests that Vietnamese pho was initially a creation of the French; a product of colonization and the clash of cultures. The examination of associated words seem to confirm this theory. Most Vietnamese culinary experts hold that the word “pho” itself is a Vietnamese version of the French word “feu,” translated to fire. Considering the French soup “Pot au Feu,” or “Pot on Fire,” this might represent the the long hours of beef bone broth boiling that is involved with pho. (Huynh) Lastly, a Vietnamese twist on the French “Pot au Feu” is the replacement of carrots and turnips with bean sprouts and herbs.
More specifically, the history of pho is traced to northern Vietnam near the capital city of Hanoi. In the country’s history, Hanoi was enriched with political power due to being the city of dynasties and their emperors, which attracted the French who consequently made Hanoi the capital of their colony. Unfortunately, northern Vietnam experienced bouts of food insecurity and contrasted the wealthier south Vietnam. North Vietnamese tended to make the most of what they had: after the French introduced the consumption of beef, the Vietnamese people utilized the bones that the French colonizers did not take for themselves. This is said to have led to the creation of Pho Bac, the pho variation of the North. After the Second World War, which led to the Japanese occupation of Vietnam, the country split into communist North Vietnam retaining Hanoi as the capital, and South Vietnam developing Sài Gòn as the capital. In response to the new Communist rule in the North, many citizens of the area fled to the South where they took their Pho Bac recipes with them. Southern Vietnam differed in culinary culture due to the sheer availability of resources: they were known to use an abundance of spices, meat, and various sauces. In the midst of this privilege, the Southern variety of pho was born: Pho Nam was distinct in its wider variety of spices, range of meat from chicken to tripe, and increased usage of fish and Hoisin sauce. (Huynh)
Vietnam, unfortunately, was a “hot spot” in the Cold War: as the Communist powers of China and Russia and the democracy- touting United States sought to bring other countries on their “team,” they supported North and South Vietnam, respectively. Increased conflict and military presence spurred the Vietnam War, which raged for over a decade and concluded with the Fall of Saigon. The destruction of the Fall of Saigon in 1975 sent Vietnamese citizens fleeing to parts of the West and other countries in Southeast Asia including the Philippines and Malaysia. (Huynh) Communities of Vietnamese refugees sprouted restaurants that introduced the countries of refuge to pho. Of course, these world-wide variations depended on what was available, resulting in regional variations of the dish. As refugees of the war traveled in different directions across the world, they established ethnic enclaves usually termed “Little Saigon.” Little Saigon in Orange County, California, is now the largest concentration of Vietnamese outside of their home country and “home to some of the most influential intellectuals, entertainers, businesspeople, and politicians in the Vietnamese diaspora…” (Nguyen) These “Little Saigon” initial refuge sites, with high populations of overseas Vietnamese, are home to the most authentic bowls of pho and other Vietnamese staples. Of course, the influence of America has spurred several varieties of pho since it has taken off in the country.
One aspect of American culture that tends to twist the dishes brought here is the demand for variety. The roaring popularity of build-your-own and the availability of dozens of varieties of meals attest to craze for customization. As a result, Americanized pho restaurants offer different varieties of meats that stray from the traditional such as seafood, pork, and brisket. Another aspect of America that creates variations of most dishes is the increasingly vegetarian and vegan population, electing to serve tofu, or at least non-red meat ingredients such as chicken in their pho. (Huynh) Lastly, the trend of developing most cuisines into a fast-food staple has even reached the seemingly time-consuming Vietnamese cuisine. From shopping malls to college campuses, quick pho joints are established by the continuous boiling of the broth, which is poured over customized bowls of a variety of meats, noodles, and condiments. It’s as hot-and-ready, and even as cheap as a Little Caesar’s pizza. Even the University of California, Los Angeles serves bowls of pho at their grab-and-go restaurant Rendezvous. This version, unfortunately, skimps on the sacred broth and opts for “pho beef stock” instead, but it’s useful for a quick Vietnamese fix during a study break. While this Americanization of pho might be disappointing to Vietnamese cuisine feins, its accessibility has transported an aspect of the culture far and wide. Little Saigon in Orange County isn’t too far of a drive if one needs a more authentic fix.