With a scenic landscape of wooded hills and endless flat plains, dotted with reed-fringed lakes and cut by one mighty Danube River, it is not surprising to find that Hungary is one of Europe’s best wildlife destinations. It has abundant and varied birdlife, and also has much to offer in terms of butterflies and other wildlife. And then there is a rich folklore, culture, wines and food.
In early May the resident species are joined by migrating waders, warblers and raptors on their way further north and the woods are alive with birdsong.
While there is plenty to explore, for those on a time-limited trip, probably the best places are the forested Zemplen Hills in the north-east, and the lowland steppe, grassland and farmlands of the Kiskunság and Hortobágy National Parks.
Kiskunság National Park
Just an hour’s drive from Budapest, the Kiskunság National Park is a tranquil lowland region of steppe, sandy dunes, farmland and wooded copses. It is one of Hungary’s most important areas for the Great Bustard, which should be displaying in April and May. Collared Pratincoles breed here, whilst the ponds and gravel pits attract three species of marsh terns, plus Red-crested Pochard and Ferruginous Duck. The reedbeds are home to Moustached, Savi’s and Great Reed Warblers, whilst overhead you can see Montagu’s Harrier, Saker Falcon and Red-footed Falcon. Keep an eye on utility wires for Roller and Lesser Grey Shrike. An evening walk could well produce Scops Owl, Long-eared Owl and Nightjar.
Zemplen Hills
North-east of Kiskunság, the Zemplen is characterised by dense broad-leaved forests, traditionally farmed fields, flowering meadows and vineyards. Nine species of woodpecker (including the rare White-backed Woodpecker) can be found here. This is the best area for Ural and Eagle Owls. It is also rich in other birds of prey, with Goshawk, Eastern Imperial, Short-toed and Lesser Spotted Eagles all breeding. While Corncrakes are more likely to be heard than seen, there will be many more obvious birds to enjoy such as Woodlark, Red-backed Shrike, Black Redstart, Barred Warbler and Golden Oriole to name but a few.
Hortobágy National Park
Probably the best-known of the Hungarian National Parks, the Hortobágy is the foremost wildlife region of the country and one of Europe’s most valuable ecological areas. It is a flat land of distant horizons, small woodlands and reed-fringed fish ponds, but dominated by the lowland semi-steppe and grassland known as the ‘puszta’.
Abundant small mammals and insects live in the grasslands making this an excellent area for raptors including Long-legged Buzzards, Imperial Eagles, Red-footed Falcons, Montagu’s Harriers and Saker Falcons. The curious, gopher-like Souslik (a small ground squirrel) is also a favoured prey of the larger raptors. During our time in the Hortobágy we have another opportunity to enjoy sightings of the massive Great Bustard, along with Stone Curlews, Collared Pratincoles and hawking White-winged Terns. White Storks nesting on the roofs of cottages, shepherds with their scruffy ‘puli’ dogs, and flocks of gaggling white geese all add to the atmosphere of the puszta, which is, not surprisingly, steeped in folklore and myth.
The Hortobágy is dotted with a series of huge complexes of fish ponds. These are rich in breeding marshland birds and a magnet for migrating waders and passerines. At this time of year the reedbeds resound to a cacophony of song, from the loud, harsh notes of Great Reed Warblers, to the sweeter, mellow songs of Marsh and Moustached Warblers and the reeling of Savi’s Warblers. The adjacent sedge beds are also home to the beautiful ‘tiger-striped’ Aquatic Warbler; although this rare bird is sadly declining in Hungary and becoming increasingly more difficult to see. By early May the herons and egrets will be nesting in large raucous colonies. Spoonbill, Great Egret, Purple Heron and Glossy Ibis all occur here, as does the secretive Bittern which can often be heard booming from the surrounding reedbeds. Other interesting species include Whiskered Tern, Black-necked Grebe and Pygmy Cormorant, whilst a host of migrating waders and wildfowl further augment the variety.
With our holiday at an end we will return to Budapest. From here you can either complete your journey home or perhaps consider extending your stay with a couple of nights in Hungary’s attractive and vibrant capital.