The term “Jazz Age” was popularised by novelist F. Scott Fitzgerald. The term was used to retrospectively refer to a period of carefree hedonism, economic prosperity, freedom and youthful ebullience. Fitzgerald describe this period of time as “an age of miracles…of art, it was an age of excess, and it was an age of satire.” (Fitzgerald, 2015). It was a truly revolutionary period.
The origin of Jazz
Music in New Orleans, even before jazz existed, was not a luxury – rather it was a necessity to many people. It was during the nineteenth century that many different racial groups – French, German, Spanish, Italian, African and Irish – found common cause in their love of music. In the United States, Jazz emerged shortly after the beginning of the century as part of a vast musical revolution. It originated in the African-American communities of New Orleans. Although the 1920s is considered to be the Jazz Age in America, when new music became more mainstream, in New Orleans that age had dawned prior to that in the 1800s.
1920s is considered the Jazz Age as this was the time when jazz music developed and became extremely popular. It was a ‘golden age’ for the genre. Jazz music was the music of the younger generation. It was rapid, heavily syncopated, and frequently made up on the spot through improvisation. (Sullivan, n.d.)
Jazz was considered to be a fusion of African and European music. Many people say that from African music, jazz got its: rhythm and “feel”. From European music, jazz attained its: harmony (seeing as the harmonies in jazz are similar to the harmonies found in classical music) and its instruments. Most instruments within jazz originated from Europe. For example, the saxophone, trumpets, pianos etc. New Orleans provided an exceptional opportunity for the birth of jazz. This is due to the diversity of the city, after all New Orleans was a port city meaning people arrived from all parts of the world, this enabled people of different ethnic backgrounds and different beliefs to intertwine. In New Orleans, jazz was influenced by creole and ragtime but ultimately blues music. (Anon., 2015)
Jazz blossomed during Prohibition period in the United States. Prohibition was a nationwide constitutional ban of alcohol, meaning that it was illegal to produce, import, transport or sell alcoholic beverages from 1920-1933. However, this ban was highly disregarded nationwide. Well organized gangs took control of supplying beer and liquor to many cities which unleashed a crime that shocked the nation. The ban of alcohol resulted in illicit speakeasies – lively venues of the Jazz Age, hosting current songs and show tunes. This is the time jazz began to be deemed as immoral and the older generation viewed it as a threat to old cultural values and promoting decadent values of the Roaring Twenties.
Eventually, jazz (“The New Orleans Sound”), spread throughout Chicago. Whilst they still called it “New Orleans Jazz”, jazz played in Chicago had become more uniformed and less wild in comparison to how it was in Louisiana. The musicians that had chosen to move up to Chicago quickly lost the “primitive” sound that came from New Orleans. Jazz played during the early Chicago period had been performed in African-American communities and white jazz enthusiasts would go to these communities to listen to jazz. However, as jazz grew popular in the United States, predominantly amongst the white community, the clubs became segregated. There were separate clubs for white and African-American audiences. The music played in “Negro clubs” as they called it, was much wilder and faster unlike the jazz played at white dance halls.
Chicago had completely changed the way jazz was played, it had now become “politer” and it was now mostly directed at white middle class audiences. Even the jazz played at the “Negro Clubs” was tame in comparison to jazz in New Orleans.
Jazz gained much of its popularity due to its exoticness, from its African roots to its soulful rhythm. Th music was described as having an alluring effect on the youthful society.
The “Jazz Age” Fashion
Jazz was the pulse of the 1920s because of its spontaneity. With a new style music also came a new dance, such as the Charleston began to replace the waltz. Jazz not only influenced dance it influenced fashion. 1920s youth used jazz as a way to rebel against the traditional culture of prior generations, this rebellion influenced bold fashion statements – flappers.
Jazz had sparked a need for dance and dance therefore meant new clothing, especially for women to easily dance without feeling constricted. The Charleston and the Black Bottom – popular dances of the 1920s, created a needed for revival in women’s evening wear due to the lively manner of these jazz dances. This caused the style of women’s dresses became somewhat androgynous and women had to bind their bust in order to appear less feminine.
1920s fashion was about liberation, trying new things and having fun in the process. After World War One, women’s style loosened up – literally.
Coco Chanel was one of the first women to wear trousers, cut her hair, and reject the corset. Coco Chanel defined many iconic looks of the 1920s. some of the greatest’s inventions such as; the little black dress, espadrilles, skirt suit etc. have been credited to her.
This era was all about Art Deco motifs, rich velvet dresses embellished with pearls and gems. Everything about the 1920s screamed expensive.
Decorative embellishments, such as fringing were added to dresses and these swung and jingled in sync with the movement of the body. These embellishments would often be placed on mesh dresses which were meant to allow women to “breathe”. (Nash, n.d.) Jazz’s influence on fashion grew even further with both jazz and dance moving onto textiles. The textiles being used included uneven repetition and geometric patterns. Images of jazz bands and people dancing to jazz were added onto textiles patterns in United States.
By the end of the 1920s, Elsa Schiaparelli strode onto the stage to represent the younger generation. She merged the idea of classic design from the Greeks and Romans with the modern necessity for freedom of movement. Schiaparelli wrote that the ancient Greeks “gave to their goddesses… the serenity of perfection and the fabulous appearance of freedom”.
The Jazz Age revolutionary period for fashion. Fashion was on the move prior to WW1 but it only really took off during the Jazz Age. From corsets to silk bandeaus to flatten the bust, there was a complete change in the status quo. According to Dennis Nothdruft -curator of 1920s Jazz Age Fashion and Photographs, “fashion in the 1920s reflected the dizzying social change and helped liberate women” (BBC, 2016).
The Jazz Age is undeniably one of the eras of the 20th century that many look back upon and romanticize. The social changes and restrictions of the era gave birth to a new type of woman, the flapper, and the fashions she wore. The 1920s fashion was so ground-breaking that in 2012 many designers such as Gucci, Issa and Ralph Lauren took inspiration from the era for their Fall Collection looks. The looks presented in the runway included a range of elements of 1920s fashion and subtly implemented them into the collection in modern ways. (Braukämper, 2012)
Women’s Role During The Jazz Age:
Flappers were a group of young western women in the 1920s, they listened to jazz, wore short skirts, bobbed their hair and flaunted their disregard for what was then considered acceptable behaviour. These young women were seen wearing extreme makeup, smoking cigarettes, driving cars, drinking and defying social and sexual norms. (Rosenberg, 2018). Flappers would hang out in speakeasies and nightclubs – “with bare arms and legs flying” (Anon., 2005). Society was scandalised by flappers and their boyfriends, whom wore long raccoon coats and kept their flask full of illegal alcohol.
At first, the newly developed style of startled the public. The society was not used to seeing women carry out such abundance of freedom. Hence, women were viewed by the society, especially the older generations and men, as provocative and rebellious.
Women played a very important role throughout the history of jazz. Women had many opportunities during this period. With the entry of the free-spirited flapper women began to take on bigger roles in society, from having the right to vote to taking part in the work force after WW1. The suffrage movement under the National League of Women Voters worked continuously to eliminate legal discrimination against women. They had more possibilities than ever. Ideas such as equality and sexuality derived from these possibilities and women appeared to be capitalised on them during this period.
The rights gained by women during the Jazz Age have evolved and helped women become more prevalent in politics and today’s workforce. Giving the women the right to vote has led to All American citizens who are of age (irrespective of gender) are allowed to vote and women now make up almost half of the workforce.
Women from the Jazz Age generated the notion of women’s rights and brought awareness to society, this activist movement has been carried forward to today’s society and we now have women leading multimillion- dollar companies and are now considered as equals next to men. (Kim, 2012)
Famous female musicians, such as Bessie Smith, emerged during the Jazz Age. Bessie gained attention not only from incredible voice but also because she was an African-American woman. Her music has grown through the ages and for that she has become one of the most respected singers of all time. Bessie Smith inspired many female singers during this time, some of which include Billie Holiday.
Another famous female vocalist, Ella Fitzgerald was the one of the most popular female jazz singers in the United States for more than half a century. In her lifetime, Fitzgerald won thirteen Grammy awards and sold over 40 million albums.
Her fame, derived from her adaptable, wide-ranging, accurate and ageless voice. She could sing sultry ballads and sweet jazz.
Conclusion
In conclusion, the Jazz Age was a period that did not just offer great music, it goes beyond that. The Jazz Age was a period of change and opportunity. It offered African-Americans a chance to showcase and embrace their culture through music, which became engraved in American history. Jazz allowed people from different ethnic backgrounds to find common interest, it brought people together – before jazz clubs became segregated. It created a fun atmosphere for everyone and even today, listening to live jazz erupts a feeling of joy within people.
This era gave women’s life a new meaning. They were finally liberated and able to live life for themselves. Women took full advantage of the opportunities they gained during the Jazz Age and it resulted in revolutionary change not just in the United States but worldwide. By doing so, they helped and gave hope to future generations.
Flappers were seen as a symbol of a brighter future for many young girls of the time, although many questioned their more extreme behaviours. Furthermore, great female musicians of the time were able to demonstrate their talents and inspire others to do so as well.
Fashion was completely modernised during the 1920s and gave women a new-found confidence and allowed them to be liberated. This change not only sprung up on in the United States but in Europe as well. Women’s suffrage and the change in women’s roles in society caused numerous social and cultural changes in 20th century society and overall the Jazz age brought about a new world.