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Relationship between visual language and message perception in regards to the women's rights movement in 1967 and 2017.
To what extent has Yves Saint Laurent’s changed its advertising style from 1967 to its 2017 campaign which sexually objectified women?
English Language and Literature
Language and Mass Communication
Word Count: 3,955
Table of Contents
Introduction……………………………………………………………………………………
2
Main Body Paragraphs
The Feminist Movement Associated With the Introduction Of Yves Saint Laurent……
3
Yves Saint Laurent’s 1967 Campaign…………………………………………………..
4
Yves Saint Laurent’s 2017 Campaign……………………………………………………
7
The Comparison…………………………………………………………………………
9
A Teenager’s Outlook…………………………………………………………………..
12
Conclusion…………………………………………………………………………………….
13
Works Cited……………………………………………………………………………………
14
Appendices…………………………………………………………………………………….
17
Introduction
This research paper will discuss the comparison between Yves Saint Laurent’s (YSL) 1967 campaign which altered the stereotypical perception of women and blurred gender lines, and the company’s new 2017 campaign which created controversy as it demonstrated improper images of women by denigrating and sexualizing them. The founder, Yves Saint Laurent felt the necessity to make fashion androgynous and an improvement to the ideology of male superiority. Based on the idea of men being greater than women in regards to intelligence, force, success and all of the things in between, ultimately making women seem inferior. Based on this YSL wanted to persuade, through his clothing line, that men and women are equal. He said, “For a woman, le smoking is an indispensable garment with which she finds herself continually in fashion because it is about style, not fashion.” And his motto was, “Fashion fades but beauty is eternal” (Shardlow, 2011). In 1970, YSL, as a company reached a turnover of around $4 million, (M. Rourke, 2008) which at the time, was immense for a fashion brand. Nowadays, the brand’s turnover is above a billion US dollars (A. Fury, 2017).
However, when a 2017 campaign was released, it changed the customers’ perception of the brand because the intention YSL was giving was derogatory and seemed to contradict the late designer’s perspective and the brand’s aims. Whereas Yves Saint Laurent’s previous campaign in 1967 demonstrated women as equal to men, the 2017 campaign embodied the idea of women as sexual objects and reinforcing a sexist vision because of visual interpretations publicly shared showcasing women’s intimity rather than the clothing line.
Evidently, visual language and gender are essential to this essay because women and men are depicted through the language which contributes largely to the reinforcement of their narrow stereotypes. Gender is nowadays clearly shaped by language used, whether it is written language or visual (McConnell-Ginet, pg76). However, the critical discussion of language representing gender was still ignored allowing the analysis of visuals from YSL to show the journey of a fashion brand once androgynous and forward-thinking in its appeal back in the 70’s to becoming vulgar and denigrating in its latest campaign of 2017, all due to language which will then answer the research question, “To what extent has Yves Saint Laurent’s advertising style from 1967 shifted to the ad campaign of 2017 which sexually objectifies women?”
Chapter 1: The Feminist Movement Associated With the Introduction Of Yves Saint Laurent
Restrictions on and suppression of women are embedded into the blueprint of history and YSL was not the first to attempt to create a movement for change. Even as little as 50 years ago, a woman’s worth was inferior to that of her male counterpart. Women were seen as men’s property, having duties at home such as taking care of children and housekeeping (Adair, The Pennsylvania State University). The French revolution of 1789 saw the beginning of feminism as women desired to support their nation. Yet, were not viewed as being meaningful contributors to the cause. The March to Versailles, a pro feminist campaign, was an early example of women’s revolt which bore the message that women were to be suppressed no more. It sprung off a series of advancements. However, it was as late as 1944, that women were allowed to legally vote in France. In 1965, married women could obtain jobs without the permission of their husband and by 1972 women were able to have jobs and salaries which were not equal to their counterparts, yet were progressing to be. Yves Saint Laurent was born in 1936 on the 1st of August, in Algeria (J. Druesedow, “Yves Saint Laurent”) and then moved to Paris at age 18, where he attended art schools later, becoming one of the most successful designers in Europe, alongside Dior and Chanel. He then opened his first “Ready to Wear” boutique which was named at the time, Rive Gauche. (J. Druesedow, “Yves Saint Laurent”) giving his brand worldwide recognition. In addition, he has made a dramatic change into the world of fashion. He was seen as an innovator and visionary, introducing turtlenecks, suits for women, “The classic day shift dress” and many other designs which not only impacted the world of fashion, but also social norms. An important mention is the “Smoking Suit” which was released in 1966 and liberated women through a clear message of equality between men and women. All of these creations made a drastic change creating steps towards equality. With this, YSL showed that both genders could wear the same clothing and still be masculine or feminine. The feminist movement is clearly significant to such argument as it allowed YSL to expand upon his main objective of equality.
Chapter 2: Yves Saint Laurent’s 1967 Campaign
In 1967, Yves Saint Laurent released a campaign which made a substantial change regarding equality and the world of fashion portraying women as authoritative, sophisticated and elegant. Through his new design of haute couture, the “Smoking Suit” which allowed women to establish who they truly are and not follow their stereotype set by society. YSL’s logic did not match with others as many thought that fashion is the social construction of gender identification (Seunghee, pg.2). Nowadays, women can easily wear tuxedos or pants, previously associated with only men, and still be feminine. Yet, at the time, it was the opposite: alluring and desirable females were portrayed fashionably as wearing dresses, skirts or corsets only. However, YSL thought that fashion does not obligate females to wear specific clothing but rather clothing that would describe them as who they are and not who their gender dictates them to be. For such reason, YSL adorned women in the same clothes as men, making a clear statement of solidarity with women.
The image on the right is from YSL 1967’s campaign in which, YSL advocated for women and said that the tuxedo was the definition of “If a man can wear this, why can’t I” (E.Shardlow, 2011). The photo shoot made it clear through the body language and facial expressions that women were independent, strong and elegant all while wearing tuxedos. The model on the photo demonstrates power, independence and ferocity that women have in them.
Furthermore, the photographer, Helmut Newton, photographed the model in such an exemplary way as the model is not holding a cigarette holder, which at the time was rare. Ladies used to smoke with the use of a cigarette holder, while men were smoking without it. The reason being, was that it was a symbol of grace and assertiveness (Mulcahy, 2015). Yet, in the picture, the model is not holding one, purposefully to proclaim how the way of smoking a cigarette should not be dependent upon one's gender. The look that the model embodies shows how she does not care about judgments and conveys how proud she is to battle for equality as a woman. The position in which the model stands demonstrates an understanding to the audience that the way women were seen previously changed; her hands in the pocket, not standing straight, imitating a masculine stance. Purposefully, it is a message to women that they can dress how they like and exude confidence and respectability; their clothing is not specifically needed to typify the archaic vision of their gender. YSL’s campaign is full of simplicity in monochrome as the color white portrays the light, the goodness, innocence and purity all in all having a positive connotation. On the contrary, the color black symbolizes the power, mystery and strength which also are significant in the message. Both of these colors have a place together as it strengthens the message of power and purity. The bold and simplistic colours accentuate the fact that this change is here to stay.
Initially, women who decided to dress up in this new collection were not accepted in many hotels or restaurants as they were seen as styleless and inelegant. However, this change was later accepted as more and more women started wearing tuxedos and so opened up mindsets of society. As a result, YSL, the revolutionary designer made a remarkable evolvement and pronounced change, which impacted all women as they were finally able to have an equal or almost equal, place in society all due to fashion and the visual language signifying the proud message portrayed by the campaign. The photography symbolized who the women truly were and it liberated many women in the society. It was the beginning of something colossal. The beginning of fairness and liberation.
Counter Argument:
Although the 1967’s advertisement was a great success for the recognition of women, Yves Saint Laurent should not be solely accountable for this liberation, considering the post war timing of his campaigned, it can be inferred that the issue with women’s rights was already recognized. Individuals viewed women with less judgement and a view less constricted by gender stipulations was developing. Society was developing but was not entirely progressive enough to accept this new fashion evolution. The picture on the right is from the brand Chanel in which women’s pants designed by Coco Chanel in the 1920’s can be seen. Some women could wear pants but were seen as not as beautiful nor elegant; it was considered somewhat inappropriate. The picture portrays a woman of the 20’s, before YSL’s tuxedo was released. She was wearing large, high-waisted pants with a shirt and flat shoes. No dress, no jewellery and no heels. Already from then, we could see a change sweeping into the fashion industry. Women portrayed as being fierce and having a strong personality. In addition her look of determination gives the reader the sensation that women are imposing, have strong personalities as her head is held high, her hands positioned firmly on her hips, and by not having her legs crossed. All reinforcing the fact that they were fighting for whom they truly were.
Although women already wore pants, Laurent’s progressive outlook in fashion made a revolutionary change in the fashion industry, and attained worldwide recognition and success due to the importance of his message. Because of him, women are nowadays proudly able to wear tuxedos, pants and shirts without the fear of being judged. Today, many women are attracted to the “Smoking Suit” as it is not only a beautiful and unique piece, but there is a story of empowerment and a message of liberation behind creating that strong affection. Yves Saint Laurent was clearly a man who through fashion stood for women and and against anyone who chose to denigrate them.
Chapter 3: Yves Saint Laurent’s 2017 Campaign
The company, Yves Saint Laurent no longer lead by the legendary designer released a new campaign in March 2017 stirring up controversy in the world of fashion due to sexually objectifying women. The campaign photographed by Duo Inez presented a philosophy completely contrasting that of the 1967’s campaign. It was just a couple of hours after the advertisement was released that the brand received more than 50 complaints (E. Hall, 2017). The reason why it was called sexist, and “incitement to rape” (RT, 2017) was because of how the models were posing. Firstly, the model was wearing black underwear with fishnet tights, having her legs opened directly in front of the camera seductively covering her upper body with a fur coat. The black underwear with fishnet tights flaunts the model’s body. The positioning of the model is seen as an incitement to rape as her intimate parts are shared publicly and are the focal point of the picture which in this manner, conveys more about sex rather than fashion. In addition, the look that the model gives alludes to a sexual theme as no expression is shared, her eyes seem to be sharp, centered on the camera as though she intends for sexual attention. Clearly her facial expressions and her posture are inappropriate for a fashion brand that wants to promote their new clothing line as the target market is only able to see the sexual side of the advertisement which largely dominantes the fashion aspect in the photo. The stance of the model is shocking, inappropriate and clearly displayed as a sexual advancement in addition to the fact that she appears frail and malnourished. Clearly, YSL’s customers did not want to be associated which such a sexist and inappropriate image. Moreover, Stephane Martin, the director of the French advertising watchdog reported “ They trivialise sexist stereotypes and are in this sense likely to shock the public’s sensibility.” (RT, 2017) Mr. Martin’s statement has reinforced and highlighted the issue presented by the advertisement, and his influence led to the company getting rid of the criticized image from its billboard ads. . Raphaelle Remy-Leleu part of the “Dare to be feminist” group also protested against the advertisement by revising the posters to read, ”SEXIST” and made a claim that, “ It ticks all the sexist boxes. The women are objectified, hyper-sexualised, and put in submissive positions.” (RT, 2017). For these reasons, the advertisement, which was released in March 2017 was banned and YSL were asked to make a new, more appropriate campaign. Due to visual language, genders and stereotypes are negatively evolving causing the issue of women not being respected, portraying women as submissive and lacking in self-respect highlights how underdeveloped equality can be in the modern era.
Counter Argument:
Nevertheless, sexualised advertisements nowadays have less impact towards the society: many styles have become coarse or indecent but accepted which is why YSL’s creative director, Anthony Vaccarello risked his new campaign. Advertisements open up to new trends, shocking or not. Nowadays, sexual discussions are more open topics to talk about and multiple brands expose bodies in their advertisements which is not necessarily considered as being offensive. In the case of YSL, it was. Vaccarello just wanted to present his new clothing campaign which eventually turned out to be a controversy in the world of fashion. The new designer’s aim was clearly not to put the model’s life in danger, receiving plenty of criticism regarding how she looked as if she was on the verge of anorexia. There had to be a new trend, a new style in YSL’s campaign, a style still unique, yet a style which represents modernity. Indeed, he wanted an advertisement which put the woman in a position to be admired, being seductive and alluring, but not objectified. In an interview, he said, “That’s very Saint Laurent: to be feminine and masculine at the same time. You don’t have to choose” (Carl Swanson, 2017). His answer contradicts some of his critics as to how the audience has interpreted it. What he meant was that, the society focusing too much on gender stereotypes and not his actual campaign. Yet what the target audience perceived from the campaign not only went against the brand but very much against the ideals of its founder, Yves Saint Laurent, contradicting his belief in equality.
Altogether, YSL’s 2017 advertisement not only sexualised and dehumanised but also objectified and reinforced women’s image as sexual entities. A woman posing with her legs spread out to provoke the sexual context of the advertisement, denuded yet emphasized in black and white which vaguely reminisced the 1967’s campaign’s style of photography. YSL customers felt offended, reducing the importance and value of what YSL claims to stand for. Based on this advertisement, the target market clearly sees the importance that visual language has upon the society we live in. Visual language in Saint Laurent’s advertisement represented the wrong perception of individuals also seen as the cause behind the struggle to achieve a fairer society..
Chapter 4: The Comparison
Yves Saint Laurent sought to redefine gender equality in the world of fashion through his company, but when he passed away on June 1st 2008 (Balmer, 2008), that took a turn, with his company sexualising, objectified and ultimately criticizing women. The vast differences between the two advertisements are so apparent that one could not comprehend that they are from the same brand. The first brand that wanted to make a drastic change, the brand who became known for the movement it backed, the brand which made itself into one of the top haute-couture brand. Yet now, YSL’s campaign shows a dirtied image of not only the brand itself but of women as they are used and presented as sexual objects. In the 1967 advertisement, the model did not seem as if on the verge of anorexia and neither was she she semi naked. Instead, she had a healthy weight, was pictured appropriately, and not positioned with a sexual intention like in the 2017 ad. Appropriate as in, wearing clothes covering intimate body parts, pictured as a fierceful woman standing up for her gender but above all, the message that the model shares of the 1967 advertisement that they are equal.: On the 1967 advertisement, the woman is standing, wearing large pants, not showing off her body shape, with her hand in her pocket. Distinctly, the first image does not follow the traditional stereotypes of women and challenges them through blurring gender borders. That is because the photographer portrayed the woman as the actual representation of whom she truly was, representing women in general, which was never seen in fashion before. Yet, looking at another image from the 2017’s advertisement 2017’s, it shows once again, the derogatory message towards women.
A model, again seeming to be on the verge of anorexia is positioned inappropriately. Firstly, the model is holding onto the chair as if she was tired, forced and somewhat waiting for a man. This was intentionally done to demonstrate the attention and demand of sex. In addition, it may be seen as the position of meat in an abattoir as the woman is positioned as if she was hung, which therefore represents subjugation, reinforcing the submissive, sexual image of women and male superiority. Eventually, the audience looking at this advertisement does not acknowledge what the campaign is truly about, but only visualize the sexual representation that it holds. Additionally, the background is beige, therefore the model stands out and so the audience sees her first. The woman is wearing a body suit, exposing her intimate body parts with transparent black tights to make it look somewhat “sexier”. This is purposefully used to show her desire, to show her sexual implication which is clearly derogatory as Yves Saint Laurent would have been against such idea. In addition, in the older advertisement, the model is smoking a cigarette without a cigarette holder, the smoke is coming out of her mouth and you can see her head tilting a little bit on the left side as if she was smiling as to how she was proud and fierce of doing a photoshoot for the feminist movement. All of which, giving an idea to the viewers that the 2017’s campaign was extremely sexual alongside objectifying women giving a sense that comparing the 1967 ad to the 2017 ad, there has been a drastic change into the ideology of YSL.
Furthermore, the heels, being colorful, enlighten the advertisement as well as show the femininity. Yet, it portrays femininity in the worst possible ways. Clearly, the 2017 advertisement does not respond to social norms as it denigrates woman and makes them inferior to men. The 2017 campaign shows the sensual and sexualised look to draw the attention of the audience, to reinforce the main goal of the advertisement. Even though the model’s face is half – hidden. She clearly creates sexual tension through eye contact, resulting in the idea that not only the model’s posture is outrageous but also the glance she was asked to give to the camera.
All that said, YSL’s style coud have never remained as exact, as style and attitudes evolve over time, being the reason why, Vaccarello attempted to bring a new style to the brand. Something considered more modern and seductive with all, looking elegant. The 21st century has made the fashion ideologies switch to a more open minded view. Nowadays, wearing clothes which are on the borderline of nudity is not shocking, yet represented as the new fashion ideology of being somewhat considered sexy but at the same time elegant. Photographers explore in different ways focusing more on the body than the actual clothes to entertain and engage the clients. Resulting in the idea that, indeed, Yves Saint Laurent has created controversy with its advertisement. However, the world has evolved with a view of more freedom as to what people wear as well as have fashion brands, trying to persuade their clients to their new trends.
In order to accurately compare these two campaigns the focus must remain on the intention of the current designer and not on the position of the company or brand. The individual outlook on gender related issues by each separate designer should be considered. That being said, the designer in question has the responsibility of representing their brand image through the ads that he creates. YSL’s goal of improving the image of women alongside reducing stereotypes has fallen behind its potential in the last 50 years. Showing how the fashion industry, still to this day struggles with attaining the equal environment for men and women to live in that it attempts to pursue.
Chapter 5: A Teenager’s Outlook:
Conducting a survey (Appendix A) was an imperative piece of this process as it demonstrated young adult perspectives in regards to this issue, which is significant as the society we live in is completely different to what it was 50 years ago. Consequently having interpretations of younger adults is important to finalize the discussion of this issue. Additionally, the fact that nowadays advertisements are often sexualized, it does not disturb young adults being the reason why investigating upon this specific advertisement was important to evaluate upon. From the answers collected, the majority came to the conclusion that the 2017 advertisement was derogatory and shocking. Additionally, most understood the objective of both pictures however many said that it was an outrageous way to portray women. The survey, confirms the notion, previously presented in this paper and believed by many regarding the YSL’s issue, thus indicating how inevitably, styles and attitudes change over time, yet ought not to be criticizing genders.
Conclusion:
In conclusion, Yves Saint Laurent has changed its advertising style from 1967, in search for the movement of feminism and the woman’s power to the 2017’s advertisement campaign which sexually objectified women, dirtied the image of not only the brand itself, but as well women. Ultimately, Yves Saint Laurent’s aim back in 1967 has had such a powerful impact on the feminist movement alongside the perspective of women, portraying them as authoritative, elegant and equal, that it has led to a conclusion that this brand has made a revolutionary movement despite the fact that the image of such brand has deprived because of the 2017 advertisement which sexually objectified women .
Finally, it can be seen how visual language can completely alter a companies perceived ideology in a short period of time. As shown, the image of women in a society has been driven negatively all due to the visuals that are shared by the ads and therefore can be seen as the representation of what many consider women to be. Nowadays, fashion makes up a big part of our society’s ideologies, like the respect for gender identity, which if is troubled like in the 2017 YSL ad, makes it hard to obtain an equal society.
With regards to the limitation of this extended essay, the fact that only one image from the 1967’s campaign was available, prevented a deeper analysis. Moreover, the survey was answered by only 12 people, therefore indicating that I had to extrapolate data, thus indicating it may not have been as accurate. However if more students contested the survey, different points of view would have been shared, hence would develop a greater argument. Additionally, it was only addressed to teenagers, thus, adults’ reaction was not stated. It would be interesting to further explore to what extent the 2017 YSL campaign has impacted today’s society in the idea that fashion denigrates gender.
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Appendices
Appendix A: Survey