Although Mexican food is one of the top three ethnic foods in the United States, few people in Mexico actually consume taco shells and burritos that are considered Mexican cuisine in the U.S. Unlike the Americanized versions, authentic Mexican food varies widely between different ethnic groups, social classes, and regions, with each town having its own specialties and culinary traditions. (Pilcher 2012: xiii). Food products made from corn such as tortillas as well as rice, beans, tomatoes, and pepper are common throughout Mexico. Several foods originating in Mexico are also popular in other countries throughout the globe such as pumpkins, chocolate, and avocados. In addition, Mexico is also recognized for its tequila, made from agave cactus in central Mexico that is able to be grown there because of the suitable climate. Soda is also popular in Mexico due to its advanced beverage industry (Live science webpage: 2017). Mexican cuisine has also served ideological purposes in the past, which is demonstrated by the exclusion of indigenous foods containing maize in nineteenth-century cookbooks in order to establish cultural boundaries of citizenship because the dishes were not considered respectable. Yet, from a practical standpoint, corn is an essential component of the Mexican diet that acts as a key source of calories and protein to millions. In addition, corn is a main source of labor and income for rural Mexicans. Corn also represents particular nationalistic, communal, and spiritual cultural traits in Mexican society. Some of the most prominent corn-based Mexican food products include: pozole, tostadas, panuchos, huaraches, sopes, enchiladas, tamales, and tortillas (López: 2008: 574).
The struggle to classify what qualifies as authentic Mexican food has been continuing for over 200 years. The idea of Mexico itself was first formulated by people of European descent born in the Americas known as Creoles. These Creoles justified their claim to political autonomy within the Spanish empire with their imagined shared past with Aztec monarchs. Meanwhile, they rejected the indigenous foods made with corn and showed disdain for the lower-class populations that consumed them. Later in the nineteenth century, independence efforts to establish a national cuisine were divided between the, “nostalgia for Creole traditions and the allure of European fashions,” (Pilcher 2012: xiv.) Dishes considered to be of indigenous origin were again ignored. Then in the twentieth century, with the rise of the United States to global power, the “Tex-Mex” style of cooking was industrialized and spread throughout the world. Confronted with the potential loss of a Mexican culinary identity, Mexican elites attempted to base their national cuisine in the pre-Hispanic past (Pilcher 2012: xiv-xv).
In his book, “Planet Taco,” the Author Jeffrey M. Pilcher argues that Mexican food has been internationalized from the start. Mexican cuisine is often a conflict between what Mexicans qualify as their own national cuisine, and what foreigners view as Mexican food. These foreigners, in particular the Americans, were responsible for spreading this perceived view of Mexican food to Europe and the rest of the world. American entrepreneurs took advantage and profited from the “festive aura” created by tamales and chili that attracted more customers worldwide for their Corona beer and margaritas. The actual word “taco” originates from silver mines in Mexico during the nineteenth century in which the term was used by workers to refer to gunpowder charges enclosed in paper “tacos.” These miners later migrated to cities in search of other jobs, in which they introduced their edible tacos as well, which were typically simple tortillas wrapped around a few ingredients (Jayasanker: 2013: 140).
Because of its chronology and geography, Mexico’s food culture can not be defined as a single national culture, but rather a combination of many cultures that vary region to region. This is due to the fact that migration can contribute just as much as American assimilation to Mexican nationalization because it interconnects ethnic groups form various parts of the country. One example would be the Poblanos and Oaxaqueños or the Latinos from other Latin American countries (Pilcher: 2014: 443). Tamales demonstrate the, “successive cycles of conquest, travel, and transculturation that have shaped modern Mexican cuisine,” (Pilcher: 2014: 444). The combination of maize cakes steamed inside a husk with various fillings originates from archaeological evidence thousands of years ago among the Maya of the Yucatán Peninsula and the Nahua of central Mexico. Indigenous cooks later learned how to incorporate pork fat into corn dough after the Spanish conquest. The Nahuas introduced the tamales to southwestern U.S. when they accompanied the Spaniards in search of silver. As a result of “whitening” this formerly indigenous dish, tamales began to develop a Hispanic identity so that frontier settlers could increase their social status. Canning and industrialization by conquistadores further transformed the dish as it was dispersed throughout the United States, and later became a key element of African-American culture in the Mississippi delta. In essence, the tamale reflects how foods assumed to belong to one classification, could actually belong to a diverse variety of ethnic groups, races, and nations through adaptations and globalization (Pilcher: 2014: 444).
Breakfast in Mexico is referred to as desayuno and is generally a light meal eaten early. Desayuno could range from tortillas and frijoles refritos (refried beans) with grated cheese and hot chocolate or cafe con leche (coffee with milk) for a countryside worker or farmer in Mexico City to fresh breads with hot chocolate or cafe con leche along with the morning paper. Without the presence of time or money constraints, a more leisurely breakfast might include huevos rancheros, fresh fruit, frijoles refritos with cheese and fresh avocado slices, tortillas, and cafe con leche or hot chocolate. The main meal of the day is the comida, which usually lasts from 2:00-5:00 p.m. and is eaten at home with the family. Almuerzo, a special lunch served around 11:00 a.m., consists of one tortilla-based dish such as enchiladas or tacos or a hearty dish such as sopa seca (Mexican noodle casserole). The comida would be lighter if almuerzo is eaten (Food Culture and Tradition website: 2015).
Snacking is also prevalent despite the main meals, as there are many vendors that earn a living preparing fresh fruits or drinks like horchata, vegetables, and nuts and seeds (Food Culture and Tradition website: 2015). Some of the fruits that street vendors sell might include pineapple, a slice of lime, and jicama (a sweet root vegetable) or elotes, which is steamed corn on the cob with shredded cheese and butter. Ice cream and sorbets are also common. Although American fast food has been introduced into the Mexican diet, street vendors continue to produce and sell traditional Mexican food products. Referred to as antojitos (translates to “little whims), snacks can be eaten at any time of the day. Other popular snacks might include a tostada, beefsteak taco, or sope (corn dough that has been lightly grilled). Children at school might have a lunch that includes a quesadilla or a torta (sandwich with avocado, cheese, chicken, or sausage on a bread roll) (Food in Every Country website: n.d.). A “sweet break” known as merienda may also be taken in the late afternoon that consists of small pastries or sweet rolls with coffee or chocolate. Many villages have their own local bakeries or small confections prepared in homes that are offered to people on the street. Many of the oldest traditional baked goods and sweets were prepared by nuns in the convents for special holidays. Other common food products found at street stands include fresh tortillas, bananas with canned milk and sugar, chicharrones (pork rinds), crispy-fried cookies, and fried taco chips. The last meal is served late in the evening and is referred to as cena. This meal would be based on staples such as frijoles and tortillas in the rural areas, but may include a cazuela of vegetables that can be seasoned with a mole sauce of chilies, tomatoes, onions, and garlic. In the city, the meal is generally served very late from 8:00 to 10:00 p.m. This meal would be light unless there is a special occasion. Most of the hosting and entertaining of events are served buffet-style at home, especially in the cities (Food Culture and Tradition website: 2015).
Juanita Mata is from Aguascalientes, Mexico who moved to the United States in her twenties. She now lives in Raleigh, North Carolina. Many of her family members still live in Mexico and she frequently goes back to visit with them, as well as go to doctors appointments and other services that are cheaper in Mexico than in the United States. As a child, her favorite food was enchiladas which her mother prepared by dipping tortillas in a red sauce, filling them with meat and veggies, rolling them up, and covering them with cheese. On the other hand, my favorite food as a child was fruit, bread, in whatever shape or form, pickles, as well as boxed kraft macaroni and cheese. Sometimes Juanita would eat fresh pigs, chicken, rabbit, or goat that were hunted by her father. I would eat fresh clams, scallops, fish, or crab that was caught by my father or grandfather whenever they would go fishing at the beach. Meanwhile, Juanita would rarely eat fish.
When she was growing up, the ethnic or regional foods in Mexico tended to be more cactus, beans, corn tortillas, and rice. It was often nearly vegetarian because the people lived more off the land. If meat happened to be available, they would eat it. In my area, the regional and ethnic foods happen to be fried chicken, barbecue, and other southern dishes. In high school, Juanita would continue to eat typical vegetarian foods with lots of corn tortillas and would eat these foods at home. In high school I would eat breakfast and dinner at home, but eat lunch that I packed in the high school cafeteria. It was almost always a peanut butter and jelly sandwich with greek yogurt and a protein bar. Corn tortillas were definitely the most typical carbohydrate in Mexico that were eaten for almuerzo or cena. Whereas in America, I would say the most typical carbohydrate eaten would be either white bread, potatoes (as in french fries), or sugary drinks / other sweets. The most typical poultry dish eaten in the country involved chicken and was often arroz con pollo, which was chicken and rice, or fideo, which was a thin pasta with chicken. Juanita thinks that the most signature dish of her country was mole, which was mostly eaten at weddings. I would say the most typical American meal would be hamburgers with fries, pizza, or fried chicken.
When she is sad or depressed, Juanita would tend to eat pan dulce, which is a Mexican sweet bread pastry. When I am sad or depressed, I tend to not eat at all, but if I do eat, it would probably be some type of soup. Like in weddings, Juanita would celebrate on special occasions with mole and tamales. For healthy foods, Juanita likes to eat carne asada and salads because they are grilled instead of fried and salads have vegetables, so they are probably better for weight management, heart health, blood sugar, and hypertension. I love to eat a vegan diet of salads, smoothies, oatmeal, and rice and beans because they are also good for weight management, bone health, heart health, blood sugar levels, hypertension, and cholesterol.
Juanita tries to avoid flautas and other foods that are deep fried. She thinks that tamales are some of the worst foods to eat, even though they are eaten on holidays, because they are very fatty and filled with cornmeal, lard, pork broth, pork, and chicken in more fat and lard. They are apparently hard to stop eating. I try to avoid fatty foods as well as most processed foods, refined carbohydrates, meat, dairy and eggs because I don’t think they are good for my general health and my bones. Breakfast is often prepared by the family in Juanita’s house that includes tomatillo salsa, potatoes with bacon, eggs, and flour tortillas. I like to bake with my friends and family because it is a fun activity to share. When she is sick, Juanita eats chicken soup and tries to avoid spicy food. I try to eat soup, bland, easily-digestible food, and pineapple to get some vitamin C when I am sick, but avoid anything heavy, dairy products, or very flavorful food. Lots of people in Mexico eat junk food according to Juanita. This junk food is often composed of fruit cups with added chamois sauce which includes tamarind and red pepper syrup. Hot takis and Coca-Cola are also very common. Fast food in America is extremely prevalent. Hamburgers, fast food, tv dinners, chips, sugary foods, pizza, and endless take-out options exist that are poor for people’s health.
25 years ago, it was very difficult to find foods from Mexico in Raleigh. However, Juanita says that everything is available now. She says that the International supermarket on South Saunders St. is one of the biggest stores in Raleigh. One of the local foods that Juanita has come to embrace is Sushi. However, she says that she has not yet found a restaurant in Raleigh that cooks authentic Mexican dishes like those from her country. She claims that all of the ones that she has tried are too Americanized.
For the potluck meal, Juanita helped me to make “Ensalada de Nopales,” which is a type of cactus salad that can be served with pico de gallo, cheese, and other spices. It is an authentic Mexican dish originating from Mexico wherever cactus is grown. People of all social classes can eat this dish as it is very cheap. This dish is often eaten with tortillas to make tacos prepared as an appetizer, a side dish for meats, or just as a normal salad by itself (Directo al Palador website: 2013). According to Juanita, ensalada de nopales can be eaten any time of the year in any situation. Juanita mostly eats it within her nuclear family.