The purpose of this study is to determine the needs of clothing for elderly disabled people. In order to recommend measures to provide more customer satisfaction with this wide area, in most cases the elderly people and people with special needs find difficulties in finding clothes that best suit their condition. The apparel industry is unable to meet their unique requirements although ‘ideal body’ types rarely exits even in able bodies. Elderly disabled people are more likely to have problems like finding clothes that fit with ease, basically dressing themselves without requiring any assistance as well the finding the correct fit. Research has shown that this has been an issue since the early 80s.
The problem worth addressing is clothing for elderly disabled people. Elderly disabled people tend to have special needs in relation to appearance, therefore whatever is being designed for disabled and old age people should serve as a psychological and social booster rather than a stigmatisation. They may not be many disabled people in every province but considering country wide and internationally they represent a large number. Dressing and undressing is a daily activity for some people especially nurses and home care givers or workers, this job is physically and psychologically stressing.
The research uses the qualitative method, distributing questionnaires to old age homes. The researcher has chosen this method as the topic deals primarily with people’s ideas, attitude, perception and experiences with clothing as elderly disabled people. The researcher will hand out questionnaires with a selected sample group of at least 60 elderly disabled people in a form of a questionnaire. The group will be an age group of 65 and older, which will consist of a confirmation letter. This research will discuss thoroughly on the selection of clothing for elderly disabled people.
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Chapter 1 ‘ Introduction
1.1 Title of the study: Clothing for Elderly Disabled People.
Many elderly disabled people have difficulties finding suitable clothes. Elderly disabled people experience greater challenges in finding suitable clothes. Elderly disabled people are people for example suffering from arthritis, Alzheimer, bedridden and living in an old age homes with care-givers or at home but still needs some assistance with dressing.
1.2 Background
As mentioned above the purpose of this study is to determine the needs of elderly disabled abled people for clothing. In order to recommend measures to provide more customer satisfaction with this wide area. In most cases the elderly people and people with special needs find the most difficulties. People with physical disabilities, old age and special needs are mostly disadvantaged in clothing.
Through research and development by Mak Man Nga (2011) the study has shown that there has been challenges for elderly disabled people. The few designers that have made clothing for elderly disabled people for one reason or another were unable to join the apparel industry. The challenges have led to opportunities and room for improvement in the clothing industry.
Research has shown that this has been an issue since the early 80s. Therefore whatever is being designed for elderly disabled people should serve as a psychological and social booster rather than stigmatisation. Elderly disabled people do not present a large society but they still need to be presented and catered for when it comes to clothing which means there’s is a customer base. Dressing and undressing is a daily activity for some people especially nurses and home care workers. This job is physically and psychologically stressing for the people involved.
The creation of a garment is comprised of an interdependent yet desperate process. The appearance and fit of a garment is highly dependent on each process. Convenience is one of the crucial steps in the selection of a garment. It is a craft that has evolved over the centuries into a skilled technical process. Today patternmaking tools have been carefully tailored to quickly perform repetitive time-consuming tasks allowing apparel companies to cater to the fast paced world of fashion (Mak Man Nga 2011).
According to Crane (2000) prior to industrial revolution the art of patternmaking was highly respected. Tailors meticulously worked with client’s personal measurements to customize patterns. Clothing made by tailors was to elaborate and relegate only to the rich people. The onset of the industrial revolution standardized patterns were essential to the success of ready to wear clothing.
The design of clothing for elderly disabled people requires attention to the body changes resulting from ageing and incorporating functional adjustment which would make garments more comfortable, easily usable, enhance safety and adapt to their limitations in movement. The aim of the study is to determine the needs in selection of clothing for elderly disabled people when it comes to clothing.
1.3 Statement of the problem
The problem worth addressing is clothing for elderly disabled people because people who are old and physically disabled tend to have special needs in relation to clothes. Getting older is a process in which most of people would not like to be involved in, however the fact is, it is inevitable and inherent to human beings. Patternmaking for elderly disabled people could be a solution for many people, starting from the care-givers to the elderly disabled people. Having functional clothes could make life easy for the care-givers assisting the elderly with dressing up. It would also give the elderly disabled people some sense of independence and confidence by allowing them to participate in dressing themselves up.
As mentioned above the design of clothing for the elderly requires attention to the body without the forgetting comfort, easily usable, enhance safety and adapt to their limitations in movement. One of the examples is accommodating stooping posture which leads the garment to be uneven at the hem. To accommodate this problem the centre back of the garment in the pattern must be increased. It will make the garment even at the hem and parallel to the ground. Having pleats, yokes, gathers also increases comfortability (Pisut and Connell 2007).
1.4 Critical research questions
‘ What is the most challenging problem you have when wearing clothes?
‘ What do you find poses as a challenge about your disability when selecting clothes?
‘ What is the main factor that hinders you when buying clothes?
‘ What type of fastening would provide ease for your disability that should be mostly used for garments in stores?
‘ How important is the texture of clothes to you?
‘ What type of fabric do you mostly prefer for your clothing?
1.5 Objectives of the study
The major objectives of this study is to investigate the cause of satisfaction and dissatisfaction among the elderly disabled people with clothes on the current market. To determine the needs and wishes of the elderly disabled people regarding their clothing, do they have any preferences regarding clothes, if they do what type of clothing they prefer? Why is it difficult for elderly disabled people to find suitable clothes?
1.6 Significance/ importance of the study
The research looks into the difficulties that are faced by elderly disabled people when it comes to finding suitable clothes when over the age of 65 and what has been done in the past. Theron (1994: 394) declares that most of the clothes and patterns done for old and disabled people have not been successful. The research seeks to understand why elderly disabled people are not catered for and what the proposed changes are for disabled people. Finding functional and symbolic value of the clothing is the important part for this whole investigation.
1.7 Limitations and Delimitations
The qualitative method questionnaire and literature allows this study to deeply explore the relatively untouched area of how important clothing for elderly disabled people is and what elderly disabled people feel due to their age about clothes sold in shops. Furthermore, the literature part allowed the researcher to better understand the struggles of the elderly disabled people.
However, participants might have more to say but due to the questionnaire they will be limited. It would have been best to conduct a face to face interview and get full depth of what the elderly people fully want in clothes. The study has limitations regarding the sample such as limited sample size and convenience sampling does not allow representation of the entire population of elderly people. The research will focus on elderly disabled people with a deformity due to an illness or naturally born with a disability.
The primary source of data comes from the questionnaire, which will be given to the respondents. The respondents of this study were randomly selected, old age residence at the West-rand old age homes. The researcher gathered data from different university journals and articles, and will distribute sampling questionnaires.
The delimitations are the elderly disabled people who are under the following frail conditions like:
– Blind and unable to write elderly people, it would be difficult to issue the questionnaire as they will not be able to fill the questionnaire.
– Stoma bag, the patient might feel uncomfortable and it is a delicate and confidential matter to other people.
-Mentally unstable elderly people, they will not be able to fill-in the questionnaire or they may become aggressive.
-The researcher will not be visiting hospitals or making patients uncomfortable.
1.9 Definitions and Terminology
‘ Elderly disabled people over the age 65 years old with some form of disability.
‘ Pattern making is a technique of working with a 2D medium to develop on paper or to develop blocks using either body measurements which assist in making garments to achieve the desired fit with optimum utilisation of resources.
Chapter 2 – Literature review
2.1 Introduction
Clothing is linked to the body. Clothes are like an envelope that contains the body and present the body to the world. Powell and Gilbert(2009: 07) stated that with the inventible coming of age a process in which the body is not spared and the bodily changes that occur makes it more difficult for elderly people to choose readymade clothes. Physically challenged individuals are also faced with the daily daunting task of having to choose clothes that accommodate their disability (Shilling 2004: 07-09).
According to Meinander et al. (2002: 03) the quality of life for elderly people and that of physically challenged individuals can be vastly improved by the choice of clothes. This is due to the fact of low self-esteem and clothing that are intertwined. The ageing of the body brings the body a lot of challenges and with physical challenged individuals they usually lead to special functional requirements in clothing (Meinander et al 2002: 03).
The chapter of this research will explore the literature with regards to the challenges and choices that elderly disabled people face when it comes to their clothes. The chapter will look into the importance of patternmaking for the elderly as well as the disabled body. It will further look into comfort clothing, age and identity with regards to fashion as well as clothing the body. The chapter will go on to further discuss the imperatives of adaptive clothing looking into choice for independence and purchasing adaptive clothing.
When it comes to clothing whether one wants to regard it as fashion or a way of life clothes are very imperative regardless of age or shape of the body. Clothes are a way to express ourselves and how we want others to perceive us. It is a way of communicating to the social world, our financial status, our identity as well as our likes and dislikes.
2.2 Theoretical Framework
This research investigates why it is difficult to find clothes suitable for elderly disabled people and what has been done in the past. According to Theron (1994: 394) most of the clothing done for elderly disabled people have proved not to be enough. The research seeks to understand why people with disabilities are not catered for and will review the current patterns for the elderly disabled people. The findings, functional and symbolic values of clothing is the important part of this whole investigation.
The aim of this study is to find the needs and wishes of the disabled and old age people regarding their clothing, do they have any preferences regarding fashion, if they do what type of clothing they prefer. Why it is difficult for elderly disabled people to find suitable clothing.
According to Lam et al. (2006: 117) understanding cases like this will help elderly caregivers in selecting clothing items that would keep warmth and comfort. Besides health factors, there are other factors that determine the clothing requirement of the elderly. These are the types of activities they engage in on a regular basis and culture. Clothing without doubt is central to the ways that older bodies are presented and understood within culture. ‘Clothing and age’ forms a significant though neglected element in the constitution and experience of old age. Would it therefore mean that certain existing cultures will influence clothing for the aged?
Twigg (2007) made an extensive critical review of clothing, age and the body, linking them to the cultural processes of ageing. She traced how clothing intersects with three current and key debates in social gerontology concerning the body, identity and agency. It examined the part played by clothing in the expression of social difference and explored the role of age ordering in determining the dress choice of older people and its enforcement through moral discourses that discipline their bodies. Dress, also seen as an arena for the expression of identify and exercise of agency, she further articulated on how far elderly people are able to use clothing to resist or redefine the dominant meaning of age as well as the changing cultural location of older people and the role of consumer culture in age identities.
According to white (2006) in Europe, the retail clothing industry is quiet on it while many older people repudiate its influence, but it does exist. For instance, ‘cut’ and ‘colour’ can be seen as responses to changes in the body, but their predominant meanings relate to cultural estimation of the status of older people. Also, loose shapeless forms and pale drab colours underwrite invisibility for elderly people and point to social marginalization.
There is a widespread adoption of easy, relaxed forms of clothing that seek to maintain older people in mainstream culture. Furthermore, clothing exposes the ways in which certain disciplinary discourses impinge upon the lives of older people, where they find themselves being judged with a new harshness by lapses of dress found socially unacceptable (White 2006).
2.3 Literature study
Literature review evaluates reports of information found in literature related to the selected area of study. The review describes, summarise, evaluate, and clarify literature and should give a theoretical base for research and help the researcher determine the nature of research.
2.3.1 The importance of pattern making for elderly and disabled.
Growing old can be an overwhelming experience. The physical changes that occur, adjusting of a new schedule and adapting to the physical challenges that come with age from growing hunch backs. The body involuntarily bending and the difficulty of bending down are one of the changes that most elderly people experience. Clothing can play a very vital role in assisting elderly or disabled people in maintaining a positive self-image (Mumel 2006: 06).
According to Mumel (2006: 08) the statement that elderly or disabled people ‘do not care very much about their appearance’ is false as well as very stereotyped statement. Research has shown that on the contrary people really do care about their appearance. Clothes play a vital role in how they identify themselves. Mumel (2006: 08) continues and says elderly people’s sense of clothing reflect their youthful thinking and fashion of earlier years when they were younger. Just as everyone elderly people prefer clothes that look very good on them, as it may happen that sending a positive appearance message may increase their opportunity for social interaction (Mumel 2006: 10).
Mumel (2006:10) further states that pattern makers are important because they have to construct patterns that accommodate special positions for closures, for easy access or increasing ease for dressing so that elderly people could also retain dignity and can provide some level of self-care at the same time. Agreeing to Mumel’s statement Annad (2011: 358) stated that shaping human body is in two main areas, which is the side of the body and the depth of the body. The shape on the side of the body is addressed by shaping the side seam of the pattern to bring the garment closer to the body on the side.
Practical choices for convenient clothing care include fabrics, styles, and colours that don’t show soiling and are easily washed. For people living in a nursing home or other care facilities, consult with the staff about clothing care procedures and storage of out of season clothes. Durable fabric is important because rigorous laundering procedures often include high temperatures for washing and drying. Because of the volume of laundry, staff usually can’t give personal care to each resident’s clothing. Clothes that are easily marked for identification are selected. Mealtime cover-ups, smocks, or bibs reduce the frequency of food stains on good clothes (Tao 2001).
2.3.2 Purchasing adaptive clothing for elderly disabled people.
Adaptive clothing or adapted clothes are defined as clothing specially designed for people with physical disabilities like the elderly disabled who have difficulty dressing themselves due to an inability to manipulate closures, such as buttons and zippers, or due to lack of a full range of motion required for self-dressing e.g arthritis sufferers. Adapted clothing also makes dressing and underdressing patients easier for care givers and provides non-restrictive comfort to the wearer (Anand 2011: 364).
For some conditions particular with elderly disabled people, it is essential that the material are not going to be abrasive to the skin. When constructing patterns for the elderly disabled, dignity must be considered so that they do not feel disrespected by placing fasteners where they are exposed when wearing clothes. Check where fasteners are located so undue pressures is not applied to tender areas of the body which can produce sores etc (Anand 2011: 364).
For elderly disabled people it is difficult to just walk into the store because they struggle with the fit and size. Most stores usually have designers of their own which gives an opportunity for adaptation of clothes for their customers in their choice of styles. For elderly disabled this is not the case. Stores have to choose among the styles offered to them by various production lines. The design and pattern construction is often computerised and based on a size system, they not the same all over the world. It makes it difficult for people to generally buy clothes which are exported and imported due to the size system, this is worse for elderly disabled people (Theron 1994: 389).
Patternmakers must check if the garments will not be hazardous by hanging over the wheelchair wheels or touch the ground when walking which could be hazardous because they can fall. For elderly and disabled people it is highly important to design clothes that have split shoulders, allow dressing without having to place the clothing over the wearers head as the garment can be put on around the person. Constructing good quality patterns for elderly and disabled people should benefit the end results of the garment and the people who will be wearing the clothes both physical and psychologically (Gupta 2011: 321).
Customers purchase quality clothing which often makes them feel good about themselves promoting a sense of well-being. Comfort clothing is a complete source of adaptive clothes for nursing homes and home health residence and seniors. Constructing good patterns and designs could solve some particular dressing problems of the elderly who are naturally suffering with age disabilities such as bending. Lifting up their arms and diseases such as arthritis, hunchbacks, diabetes, and Alzheimer when adapting good patterns (Anand 2011: 364).
According to Gupta (2011: 325) the quality of life for disabled and elderly people can in many cases substantially be improved by a better choice of good looking and functional clothing and other textile products. The population of the elderly disabled people when compared to the majority of the population, retail stores and fitting rooms are designed for people who are walking without restrictions and working is constructed for people with standard body dimensions and figuration.
Gupta (2011: 321) continues to say that this raises issues faced by elderly disabled people such as how laws and policies highlight principles of equal opportunities in order to make an independent, high quality life possible. The writer argues that this policy should also be applied when it concerns clothing to make daily life comfortable as possible for persons who have many other obstacles to deal with.
According to Tiggeman and Catherine(2009: 299) it is difficult for elderly disabled customers, based on the dimensions on standard size. Physical impairment needs individual adaptation of clothing, they depend on single ply production manufactures. This involves a production of single layer materials, since the patterns must be adjusted for an individual. On the other hand Hayes et al (2010: 189) argues that pattern makers or manufactures would be wasting time if they were to draft patterns that accommodate an individual
2.3.3 The independence of making clothing, choices.
Choice making does not need to end just because people require daily assistance in living. According to Sohn (2009: 02) making decisions about clothing can increase elderly disabled people’s sense of independence and help them feel better about themselves. Care givers can help older people think about the pattern construction of a garment. By helping them consider their body structure or condition, their amount and type of physical activity and their ability to dress and undress themselves. Pattern makers can ask questions to help make garments decisions that reflects the end product.
Sohn (2009: 03) continues to say that most people like clothing that is easy to put on and take off. If a person needs help getting dressed and undressed, clothes that go on and come off easily helps everyone concerned. Clothes that fit loosely without being baggy are easier to get on and off. Features such as front openings, large zipper pulls, hook and loop tape closures, or wrap styles may help. When the following functions are included when constructing a pattern, yokes or gathers to flatter the bodies, accessible front pockets for carrying personal items (Sohn 2009: 24).
As elderly people continue to age, several factors may affect their fashion needs and might cause the need for more revisions in their wardrobe, from dress/garments to shoes, ties, hats, caps, socks, stockings, hand gloves, eye-glasses, walking sticks, under wears, neckties, shawls, etc. These factors include the following (Hamilton, 2008; White, 2006; Weber and Karam, 2007):
Health issues and Mobility challenges.
Health issues ‘ changes in energy levels and reaction to medications can make it difficult to dress and perform personal care activities. It can become very difficult for individuals to dress themselves when they become physically or mentally challenged with Alzheimer’s, arthritis, muscle weakness or other medical issues like cooler body temperatures. Getting fingers to move easily enough to button up, zip up, or operate bra closures or tie a shoe lace can become impossible.
Frail older people often have problems getting dressed and finding clothes to fit people with arthritis can struggle with small buttons while someone with dementia may forget how to dress altogether.
Mobility challenges – seniors may need clothes that are easy to get on and take off from a seated or even lying position. New environment activities in an active senior require a wide range of fashions than if they have health or mobility problems that require them to be bedridden, bound to wheelchairs in an assisted living or nursing home situation.
2.3.4 Comfort Clothing.
Comfort clothing is a state of satisfaction indicating balance between physically and psychological challenge. The design of clothing for the elderly requires attention to the changes resulting from aging and incorporating functional adjustment which would make garments more comfortable, easy usable, enhance safety and adapt to their limitations in movement. Pattern making requirements of elderly clothing in light of the bodily changes in elderly are discussed below (Anand 2011: 361).
Stooping posture of the elderly leads to garments hanging in front and riding high at the back. To accommodate this, as mentioned the centre back length in the pattern is increased, this will give the hem parallel to the ground in a stooped figure. Box silhouette can be used to conceal irregularities of waist and hip (Anand 2011: 362). Comfort of movement is provided by incorporating yokes, gathers and pleats. Sleeves could also be made with reduced cap height to increase comfort and bicep. Armholes are dropped for comfort of movement, front opening can be provided for ease of dressing and pockets for carrying keys and glasses and phone can leave the hands free for better balance. Oversize zippers and pullers provide ease of gripping and operating (Anand 2011: 364).
Physical comfort protects people from humidity, heat, cold and helps them feel physically comfortable. Characteristics of fabric that affects physical comfort include flexibility, bulkiness, weight and texture. The ground level of the garment starting with pattern makers to the construction of the garment does affect physical comfort. Psychological comfort clothing give a wearer a sense of well-being. It tells something about a person. It also affects the way others see think of a person (Reich 1993:35).
2.3.5 The importance of clothing and convenience
Experiencing urinary incontinence leads to clothing problems that are inconvenient for both the elderly disabled person who has lost bladder control and the caregiver. Loss of control can be caused by disease or injury at any point in a person’s life, but it is common for elderly people. Sometimes incontinence can be minimized or treated and cured, so a physician always should be consulted at the onset (Reich 1993:36).
Incontinence products such as clothing with easy fasteners are meant to reduce inconvenience and embarrassment. They help reduce the need for frequent clothing and bedding (Reich 1993: 34). Various designs, closure systems, and absorbency levels are available in both disposable and reusable incontinence products. These include briefs, belted undergarments, liners and shields (Reich 1993: 35).
Incontinence concerns ‘ elderly persons who experience incontinence problems need clothing that helps hide or camouflage their problem especially in public as well as being designed to allow for easy and quick access and quick changes on a regular basis.
A person can be comfortable or uncomfortable wearing a certain garment or type of clothing in a social situation. Social comfort maybe involved when a person wishes to make an impression through the clothing he or she wears. Elderly disabled people have a right to make choices about their clothing (Reich 1993: 36). A caregiver can help them plan for the types of clothing that will make them feel good about their appearance. That will be easy to wear and care for. When designing for elderly it is important to think of availability and accessibility of storage within the garment (Reich 1993:38)
It is difficult for elderly disabled customers, based on the dimensions on standard size. Physical impairment needs individual adaptation of clothing, they depend on single ply production manufactures (Reich 1993: 35).This involves a production of single layer materials, since the patterns must be adjusted for an individual (Theron 1994: 389).On the other hand