Hermann’s tortoises are a smaller breed of tortoise that are on the near-threatened list as the wild population is significantly decreasing (van Dijk, 2018).
NUTRITIONAL REQUIREMENTS
Hermann’s Tortoises are strictly herbivorous and require a diet high in calcium but low in phosphorous (Northampton Reptile Centre, 2018). Vegetation such as clover, dandelions, and plenty of leafy greens are ideal, and can be supplemented with vegetables and occasionally fruit. Chop the food up into a fine salad and serve in a low lipped dish or food bowl. Allow the tortoises to eat as much as they can within around 30 minutes, and then remove the food. Avoid peas and beans as they are too rich in protein and phytic acid, which prevents calcium absorption. Never feed your tortoise meat, as high levels of protein and phosphorous will put stress on their liver and kidneys and interfere with calcium metabolism (Kivett, 2013)
Pyramiding of the shell is a result of an unbalanced diet, with too much phosphorous or not enough calcium. It’s recommended to leave a cuttlebone in their enclosure as a source of calcium that the tortoise can regulate.
Water should always be available in a shallow dish large enough for them to sit in. They absorb water through their cloaca, so should be bathed in a shallow tray daily while they are young, and then two or three times a week as adults to keep them hydrated (Highfield, 2008).
HOUSING REQUIREMENTS
Housing is probably the most important aspects of owning a Hermann’s tortoise, any tortoise for that matter. A lot of tortoise medical problems come from insufficient housing requirements, so making sure you get it right is essential for their health. There are two main alternatives to housing, outdoor housing and Indoor housing. Deciding what housing to go with usually depends on the climate of where you live, as Hermann tortoises do not cope well with temperatures under 21°c. Keep in mind that both indoor and outdoor enclosures should have a place for the tortoise to soak and drink from. It should be deep enough to get their body fully submerged, but not too deep to where they can’t get out and drown…
OUTDOOR ENCLOSURES
Hermann’s tortoises are adventurous by nature, so an outdoor enclosure is useful to keep them active. The key to a good habitat is microclimates – your enclosure should have a lot of these. The enclosure should be mostly in the sun with shade available to cool down and adding piles of soil or sand that soak in heat gives your tortoise a warm spot to bask (Highfield, 2008). Each tortoise needs at least ten square metres of, so make sure you’ve got the room before adoption.
Tortoises will instinctively burrow so outdoor enclosures need to be secured on all sides. Avoid an escape by digging up around 30cm of soil under the enclosure and lining it with chicken wire before covering again with the soil. These tortoises have impressive climbing skills, so you should have a cover over the enclosure and avoid using climbable material like chicken wire for the walls.
INDOOR ENCLOSURES
Hermann’s tortoises originated in the Mediterranean and are used to warm weather, so an indoor enclosure is the best option in colder climates. Tortoise tables are the most common type of housing for an indoor enclosure, these can sometimes be bookshelves or old wardrobes with the doors or shelves taken out and then laid on its back. All indoor enclosures should have a heat lamp that emits UV light, which your tortoise needs to synthesize vitamin D3, which is crucial for calcium absorption (Roberts et al., 2017). Aim for a temperature around 27°C, and just like an outdoor enclosure you should be looking at creating a lot of microclimates to permit thermoregulation. You can achieve this by using heat lamps, shaded areas, and tunnels to rest and hide (Kivett, 2013). It is recommended to also have an outdoor play area for sunny days and some natural UVB.
ENVIRONMENTAL ENRICHMENT
Hermann’s tortoises often have curious and adventurous personalities, so it’s great to give them different activities to nurture these traits. Food-based variations are an easy starting point and can include hanging their greens from a hook, allowing them to graze as they would in the wild. Hiding their favourite vegies within their enclosures encourages them to forage for food
Investing in an enrichment ball, filling it with food as an alternative.
A lot of tortoises enjoy pushing items around their enclosure, so provide some toys such as balls or plastic containers.
Have a go at training them using food as a reward- they are intelligent and quick to learn
(Adkins, 2012)
EXERCISE REQUIREMENTS
Hermann’s tortoises are very active and are able to exercise themselves as long as their enclosure is large enough. Giving them time to explore in an outdoor enclosure with opportunities for digging and climbing is a great source of enrichment and makes sure that they’re getting enough exercise (Pets World, 2004). To keep them safe, make sure that climbing surfaces are safe enough and not too high. Supervision is recommended while they are outside, and the area should be enclosed to keep out predators and prevent them getting lost. It’s a good idea to have a safe place indoors that they can explore when the weather isn’t suitable.
GENERAL HEALTH REQUIREMENTS
The oldest recorded Hermann’s tortoise was 110 years old! Your tortoise’s life span will likely exceed 50 years old, so these pets are a huge commitment. In this long life they could develop a number of diseases including respiratory infections, metabolic bone disease, and prolapses (Harkewicz, 2016). Tortoises do not need vaccinations, as with the right care and attention they can live healthy and full lives. Worms are common in young tortoises but can be prevented by having a sample of your tortoise’s feces tested annually. If the test is positive, then worm treatment is given orally by sprinkling it over food or adding to water (Wilton Pet Centre., 2018). It’s a good idea to check if there is a specialist reptile vet in your area before bringing home your tortoise, as most veterinary clinics don’t have many reptile patients.
GROOMING REQUIREMENTS
If your tortoise starts to develop a soft shell, then it is clear that it does not have adequate lighting in its habitat. Make sure that the tortoise can access good UV, with 20–25cm distance between the bulb and its shell. You should be changing the UV bulb every 9–12 months to ensure that it’s still giving off proper UV light. Shell pyramiding is an indication of incorrect diet (commonly too much protein) and can be prevented if the diet is improved (Fife, 2015). Tortoises need to be bathed in shallow lukewarm water daily to keep them hydrated and stimulate urination. This can be reduced to two or three times per week once they reach adulthood.
BREEDING
To prevent breeding within your tortoise community, simply keep males and females separated. Tortoises are quite alright by themselves if you are still handling them often and giving lots of walking time. If you do plan on breeding your tortoises, then it is best to use healthy, young females, as the stress of mating and laying is likely to cause illness in older animals. Never breed tortoises of different species, as eggs are likely to be infertile, and mating could transfer foreign pathogens between the individuals (The Tortoise Shop, 2018).
Courtship involves the males relentlessly ramming and biting the female until she submits to copulation. Limit the time that the pair spend together to just a few hours a day until they have mated and treat any open wounds immediately. A pregnant female requires additional calcium in her diet to ensure her eggs can develop strong shells. The gestation period varies as a female can willingly prevent laying until she finds a suitable nesting site, where four to six eggs are typically laid (Leone, 2015). To increase the chance of hatchlings surviving, the eggs should be placed in an incubator at 25°C – 35°C. Sex determination is dependent on temperature, with females being more likely in the higher temperature range and males more common in cooler temperatures. The humidity should be between 50 and 90% and can be controlled by adding or removing small bowls of water to the incubator. Limit disturbance to the eggs, as altering their orientation can cause the yolk sac to smother the hatchling (The Tortoise Shop, 2018). The eggs will hatch after an average of 90 days incubating (Lavender, 2012), but can hatch within 50 to 150 days dependent on incubation temperatures. Do not interfere with the hatching process – some hatchlings can take a few days to emerge from the egg, and not all eggs will hatch at the same time.